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Last day in Taiwan

  Hengchun I spent one day in this coastal city. Late that day I got an email from Melody. Her mother was deathly ill, and in the hospital. My presence was needed immediately at home (well, actually in Los Angeles). I bought a plane ticket for the next day. Thanks to Taiwan’s great transportation system I got back to Taipei in five hours. I spent a few hours trying to purchase some gifts, then headed to the airport for my flight. The plane left just after midnight. Twelve hours later I was in LA.  The health scare faded, I’m happy to relate. Medy is now healed and at home. I lost a few days of my journey but that’s no great problem. 

The road to Hengchun

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Leaving Lamey Island The night of July 12th I searched Airbnb for suitable digs on the mainland. I found an inexpensive place in the extreme southeast corner of Taiwan, the city of Hengchun, and put down funds to secure a two-night stay.  I had twelve days left before my plane was scheduled to depart Taipei, ample time for me to explore the east coast of the nation. The east side of Taiwan is sparsely populated, at least compared to the westward. I wasn’t especially psyched to undertake a bunch of nature walks, but if that was what was left to see here then I was resolved to make the slow trek northward. I wanted to be in the capital city by the 20th to provide me with a few days to buy gifts.  I returned my ebike on the morning of the 13th and walked the short distance to the ferry terminal. The return boat ride to the mainland was uneventful. I did dread the next step, a 15 minute walk in the stifling heat of the late morning which would get me to a bus stop that Google told me would

Last day on Lamey Island

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Ringo is my hero. Nothing to do with music. I saw a YouTube video of his 83rd birthday party in Beverly Hills. He looks 50. The scuttlebutt is that he is a vegan and that that is the proximate cause of his youthful appearance. (Hair coloring looked like another factor to me.)      I leave this island tomorrow morning, set for a long trip up the east coast of Taiwan. I have to get to Taipei which should be easy. There’s no high speed rail on that coast so I’ll need to resort to long bus rides along mountainous terrain.  I skipped most of the tourist stops and set myself the task of trying out every accessible beach on Lamey. Most of the littoral here is rocky but there are a few places where you an gambol down to a patch of sand that gives you an opening to swim in the cool waters of the Pacific. I found four such places.  Secret Beach Beauty Beach: tricky coral outcroppings make it slightly hazardous to get to the open ocean, but a nice place. Rated B+ Venice Beach (yes, that’s the nam

The Place of Many Names

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  Beauty Beach.       The place of many names: Xiao Liuqiu; Pingtung County; Lamey Island….there are more. We lie about 12 kilometers southwest of the Taiwan Mainland, about a 15 minute ferry ride. I left Tainan by city bus, 30 minutes to the High Speed Rail station. After a short ride on HSR I boarded the bus for the ferry terminal, this a one hour, comfortable jaunt south. The ferry dropped me at the little port area that is packed with places renting scooters. I decided to walk, 24 minutes in the heat to my hostel in the middle of the island. That tells you how small this place is.  I found my digs with no trouble but when I got here there was no one to contact. My host wasn’t around but there were about a dozen elderly Chinese women who spoke no English. The grounds of this funky place are apparently also the headquarters of one of the myriad diving organizations on the island. As I passed their ‘office’ (just a flat concrete surface surrounded by surf boards and other water-fun to

Tainan

Headed South Cheapskate that I am, I searched Airbnb for a place to spend a couple nights for under $25/night. I found such a place —a single room in someone's fifth floor apartment (no elevator) in the southern city of Tainan. My ultimate destination is further south on the island of Liu Qui off the southern coast of Taiwan, but it seemed sensible to check out this city, just to……check it out.  I took the high speed train south (Google says it goes at 285 to 300 kms/hour)  Google says these trains travel at a few kms/hr slower than the ones I took in Spain. The service is as efficient and clean as you would expect from anything in this efficient and clean nation (hah, take that Xi Jin Ping). Wouldn't it be grand if California joined Taiwan in the 21st century? The train skirted the city center so I boarded a pleasant local train for the trip into town. Twenty-two minutes later I was at the next step in my Google itinerary, but my perpetual stupidity reared its head again here.

Impressions of the capital city

Impressions of Taipei You are unlikely to be greatly disturbed in Taipei. Crime seems nonexistent. Places to eat are so abundant they seem overbearing at times. There is just enough English to allow a Westerner to survive with minimal bumps in the road. There is a Starbucks on every corner…..seemingly. There are neighborhoods where teens and young adults carouse in clubs, bars, and comfortable places to linger over a meal.  Yet this isn't a place where strangers will come away with great memories. Concerts and plays are scarce if thatÅ› your hope. Beaches are distant (but accessible by public transit). And there is the overbearing presence of the heat. For reasons I can't fathom there is no liberating fog in Taiwan though Taipei is only a few kilometers from the ocean. And the wind…..it is almost entirely absent unless you hie yourself to  the surrounding mountains. Thus Google routinely reports ¨36 degrees, feels like 46¨ (thatÅ› 115 degrees to the English world).  My biggest di

Taipei

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  Blog 07-08-23 Tainan Taipei and environs My first day in Taipei, Monday, I booked a four hour bicycle tour of the city. It’s a strategy I like to employ to get a quick feel for any metropolis. What turned out to be different this time was that the Chinese characters on all the store fronts denied me the ability to create dependable memories of places I passed. When the trip was over I was not much more comfortable with Taipei than I was before the trip. What I should have done was to consult my Google Maps frequently throughout the journey thus orienting  myself to the area around my hostel (which was only a few blocks from the bike shot that served as the starting point for the tour).  The tour leader was a petite, athletic young asian woman about 30 years old. There were supposed to be four other folks on the trip, all part of the same family, but the elderly parents who formed half the group bowed out. It was hot, about 95 degrees. The parents apparently didn’t relish a swelterin